4 minute read
If you’ve ever wondered why some lash lifts look soft and natural while others are bold and dramatic, the answer often comes down to one small detail: the rod or shield you choose. These little silicone tools might seem simple, but they’re actually the most important factor in shaping the final curl. Understanding how they work, and how to pick the right one, will completely transform your results.
Types of Lash Lift Shields
Shields come in a variety of textures and shapes, and each brings a slightly different result. By learning how they behave, you’ll be able to tailor the lash lift to suit each client perfectly.
When it comes to texture, some shields are flexible, jelly-like, and slightly sticky. These are fantastic when you need them to hug the eyelid closely without sliding around, making placement easier. They’re particularly useful when working on tricky eye shapes, although they can take more practice to master because of their flexibility.
On the other hand, sturdier shields are firmer and more stable, which makes them a great option for beginners. They stay put and give you control when lifting the lashes. The only downside is that they don’t always adapt to every eye shape as well, so you may need to apply glue to the back to keep them secure.
Shields can also be categorised by their shape. Teardrop shields create a curl that resembles L or M curls in lash extensions. They lift the lashes strongly from the base but keep the tip straight, which makes the lashes appear longer. This is especially effective on clients with short lashes who want that striking lash extension effect. Alba’s Expert shields and Extreme shields belong in this teardrop category.
Round shields, as the name suggests, create a soft C or U-shaped curl. They produce a gentle, rounded lift that feels more elegant and natural, making them ideal for clients with long lashes. Because the curl is softer, the lashes will also grow out more naturally with less noticeable regrowth. The main thing to watch for is hooded or deep-set eyes — in these cases, the tips can sometimes curl back onto the eyelid. To prevent that, you can skip applying lifting cream to the very ends of the lashes. Alba’s Universal shields and Ultimate shields fall into this round shape group.
Finally, there are flat jelly shields, often referred to as Korean lash lift pads. Unlike other shields, they don’t add any curve at all. Instead, they’re designed specifically for the first step of the Korean lash lift technique, the softening stage. Because they’re thin and flat, they make it very easy to see the lash bases and lift them right from the root, without risking any solution seeping into the eyes. These pads should only be used for Step 1 — once you move to Step 2, you’ll need to switch back to a standard shield.
Choosing the Right Shield for Each Client
Selecting the correct shield is as much an art as it is a science. Every client’s eye shape, brow bone, lash length, and growth direction is different, so a one-size-fits-all approach simply doesn’t work. Before you even start, take a close look at your client’s eyes.
Consider whether they’re hooded, round, deep-set, or monolid, and check how much space there is under the brow bone for the lashes to lift into. Look at the lashes themselves — are they long or short, thick or fine, straight or angled downward?
Finally, ask your client what they’re hoping to achieve. Do they want a soft, natural curl that looks effortless for every day, or do they prefer a dramatic, lifted look that opens up the eyes?
One great way to assess is to take photos of your client’s eyes from three different angles: straight on, at a 45-degree angle, and from the side. With practice, this will help you visualise how the lashes will look once lifted, and it also gives you a great before-and-after reference to show your clients.
Getting the Size Right
Even once you’ve chosen the shield shape, size is equally important. A good rule of thumb is that the shield should cover about two-thirds of the lash length when placed on the eyelid. This ensures the lashes have enough space to curl without bending awkwardly. If you’re performing a Korean lash lift, where the goal is to process the lashes all the way from root to tip, you might prefer to size up slightly.
Size also plays a role in how dramatic the final look will be. Using a smaller shield will create a tighter curl and a more dramatic result, while sizing up will produce a softer, more natural lift. For clients with deep-set or hooded eyes, or those with monolids and heavier lids, it’s often better to go one size larger. This avoids the tips curling back onto the eyelid and keeps the lift comfortable. The same advice applies to clients with very long lashes — going up a size prevents the tips from pressing against the skin.
A Quick Guide to Shield Styles
To make things easier, here’s a summary of how different shield styles work:
- Expert: A teardrop shape with a natural L/C curl. Best for medium to long lashes when you want a soft, natural lift.
- Extreme: A teardrop shape with a dramatic L/C curl. Great for short to medium lashes when you want a bold, defined effect.
- Universal: A round shape with a natural U curl. Suitable for short to medium lashes, producing a natural, open-eye look.
- Ultimate: A round shape with a dramatic U curl. Perfect for medium to long lashes when you want a strong, eye-catching lift.
